Datasheet says: ‘The LED of matrix board (Dia:3mm) is effective when EN=0 while it’s 1 for 5mm LED matrix board’.

I think that this means that the row of LEDs are ON when the EN is low. At least it works the other way around than the 5mm board. It’s a strong clue why I’m seeing problems I’ll swap it around and check.

-Andy

Thanks for the references to the 6432 led panels!

Looks great. Any chance of posting the code so I can have a go with my own displays?

Nick

I got rid of the ghosting when changing the enable / row select procedure found on the Arduino forum. So I don’t see any ghosting using my firmware.

The SD card uses the SPI interface so you might run out of Digital IO pins. But it might work with a Arduino Mega…

-Andy

I’ve triple checked my wiring with a scope. I wrote a very simple pde to toggle each control line so I can see that the connections are OK & there are no shorts between wires.

I can see some of the animation on the screen but it flickers terribly. It looks like some of the red pixels are written to the wrong rows.

I got the PIC based demo board from Sure & I’ve used it to check that the display is working. The datasheet is very vague about the timing & I’m going to hook up the demo board to a logic analyser to check the relationship of the enable, clock, rows & data.

Other people on the Arduino forums have had problems with ‘Ghosting’ with this display. I wonder if there is a difference between panels..

Any clues?

-Andy

BTW The Ikea table looks cool!

-Andy

nice work btw

The 6 wire interface between the AVR I/O pins and the display is very clean.
Unlike the quirky interfaces with obscure exceptions that I’m often forced to use.

Because I am too often pin-limited in my systems, I would be tempted to use fewer pins:

* could eliminate the “row” pin by making the one-hot row select 74HC595 automatically select the next row whenever you finish loading data into the column bits, by wiring its SCK to the global RCK. But once the one-hot has been shifted out the end, it gets a bit tricky resetting it to the beginning — probably requiring more hardware.

* could use a 3 pin “daisy-chain spi”, with “data”, “SCK”, and “RCK” pins, by connecting the “data-in” of each shift register to the cascading “serial data out” of the previous 74HC595 in the daisy chain. But your method loads the 4 chips in 1/3 or 1/4 the time.

Because I like nice, straight, parallel lines rather than many-to-many crossing permutations,
I would be tempted to connect the LEDs as a “packed pixel” array.
The “packed pixel” array would connect the first 3 columns r,g,b to the first 3 pins of the first 74HC595 shift register, the second 3 columns r,g,b to the next 3 pins of that first shift register, and the third 3 columns r,g,b, to the last 2 pins of that first shift register and the first pin of the next register … but splitting that pixel across 2 chips probably makes the software more complex than your “bit plane” approach.

Years ago, some people would “brightness sort” their LEDs, putting the brightest LEDs at the top of the array and the dimmest LEDs at the bottom of the array.
Is that really necessary with modern LEDs?

the lamps creates color by changing permanently the Red, Green and Blue Component so more than 7 colors are created. You can find the circuit here: http://tobiscorner.floery.net/projects/avr/tinyrgb/powerrgb/70

Can we creat more than 7 colours?

please send me circuit and asm file
thank & regards,
Audiocorp

Can you please send my the example source in assembly for control the AD9833 because the flowcharts on the datasheet of the chip aren’t clearly for me.

I would like the source code for control the internal ADC of the microcontroller 18F877A with interrupt driven.

Thanks

greets,

Sven

Explanation: The mosfet doesn’t need any resistance in the gate because it is voltage controlled.

But the resistors to the ground are needed bacause when the pin of your AVR will become 0V, the gate voltage will try to run trough your avr. Simply prevented with the pulldowns.

Is this making any sense? I’m making a similar project as we speak. Any other useful tips for me?

greets,

Sven

Just connect CLK and SI to the AVR. For the analog Output of the CCD i used a OPV amplifier with a gain of about 2 (i don’t really remember). Sorry I do not have a drawn diagram.

Tobi

Can you send me shematic

thanks a lot

best wishes
Somdeb

could you maybe post or mail a schematic of this complete setup ?

Thanks,

rhodos jim

can I download the PCB of the ausioFM at your homepage?

bye
Thomas

which RGB LED you’ve used and where you bought the led? the only RGB LED I find here is the http://www.led1.de/shop/product_info.php?pName=prolight-power-rgb-led-3-watt-ga-p-308&cName=prolight-power-leds-prolight-power-rgb-leds-c-8_73

sorry for my looooong delay to answer your question about the ATTiny45 code.As i have no Homepage for downloading, i ask Floe for help:
Which is the best way to transfer my modified Code to Andreas??? (May be, Floe is also interested to check the Code?)

Best regards from Vienna
Robert

I bought it here: http://www.w-r-e.de/shop/index.html

where did you get these line sensors?

Thank you,

Jan

Hope that helps… Tobi

BTW, I find this a much simpler circuit than others I’ve seen, and I like the extensibility to cover higher power RGB. Thanks for posting!

at first a happy new year and I�´ll hope that you can understand my bad english.
I think that IÃ?´m the ââ?¬Å?Someoneââ?¬? who reports earlier from this ââ?¬Å?blackoutââ?¬?.
Now I have test allso the new code for the Tiny 15 and I can say:
ââ?¬Å?It works fine and now there are no ââ?¬Å?blackoutsââ?¬? to see. Great work.ââ?¬?
Sometimes I�´m also think that it wood be fine, when there are some adjustment-points in the code to control dimmtime/color-change-time.
Please let me know, if you Tobi or you Robert implement this features into an other new version. I�´m also interested on the adapted code for the Tiny45. Robert, can you send me this code or where can i find the code in the www ?

Best regards
Andreas

I’ll test this version after new year …

Thanks and have a good new year
Martin

it�´s hard to say that i need it faster/slower.It depends on my applications (Moodlight-Stuff).
For shure i need some adjustment-points in the code to control dimmtime/color-change-time.With only changing the Timer0/1-Prescaler my problem is not solved.

But dont get nervous about this.It is not soooooo urgent and (i think) it�´s only my personal wish for my PERFECT application.

In the meantime i have adapted your code for a Tiny45.

Best regards
Robert Ibener

thank you for your new version.It works as expected now, even i am missing some features built in in the previous version (for example:
adjustable dimming steps,adjustable time of color-change,e.t.c).
I will try to implement above features into the new version.If you are interrested, i will send you the code, but it will need some time!

Best regards
Robert Ibener

Tobias

Hey

I’m building it to but bigger.
Did you program with bascom or with something else? Would it be possible to see your program??

Thx

Dries :p

groetjes